03 Casting back to the very earliest vintages: the In his speech, Bear said it was his intention to ‘make the “pure juice of the grape” first underground cellar had been excavated in the “beer of the country”’, emphasising the view that wine had a more ‘civilised’ 1862 and completed in 1863, and by the early effect on the community than beer or spirits, and also in retaliation against the 1870s production was peaking, and tenders were Temperance Movement, which was rapidly gaining a foothold in the community. let in late 1875 for the construction of a new Designed by Melbourne architect William Zeal, the ‘New Cellar’ was remarkable for underground cellar. its time because it was designed to be constructed without a single key-stone. The contract was awarded to Escott James Construction was fast and furious, as was the relationship between Zeal and Purbrick. Purbrick, second cousin once removed of Zeal wrote to Purbrick in February 1876 detailing a litany of complaints concerning Reginald Purbrick, who purchased Tahbilk some delay and neglect in the construction of the cellar, from mortar not being in fifty years later to begin the Purbrick family’s accordance with specifications, to not shoring up walls as they were built, neglecting Tahbilk dynasty. to ‘fill and ram’ with ‘good sound dug material’ in spaces between the excavation and Excavation of the ‘New Cellar’ began in late the walls of the cellar … and on it went. One wonders how the cellar has survived! 1875, with the Foundation Stone laid on January Further accusations and letters from Zeal arrived and were subsequently ignored 1st 1876. The official ceremony to lay the stone by Purbrick with Zeal stating that he would ‘not recognise your work in any way until was important news for the local area and was you comply with my instructions.’ reported on by the Nagambie Chronicle, noting Purbrick, oblivious to the diatribe, continued his work with purpose, inconveniently ‘The stone having been lowered into its place, depositing soil in the cellar yard to impede the unloading of grapes - the 1876 harvest and the square, level, and mallet properly having commenced – which forced the hand of management and ensured he would applied, the stone was declared by Mr Bear to receive payment that was still outstanding from his initial excavation. be well and truly laid.’ [Editor: John Pinney Bear, Perhaps Escott Purbrick’s response to a toast wishing him every success at the the Bear family owning Tahbilk at the time before Foundation Stone ceremony was an insight to the man and his methods. He said that eventually selling to Reginald Purbrick] until he came to Tahbilk he did not know what good colonial wine really was, going The company, numbering about 150, were then on to say he found he could take his fair share, and rise and go to work in the called upon to drink to the Queen and Royal morning with a good clear head, something he had not experienced in the past. Family with the usual honours [sic.], which was Despite his efforts the construction of the New Cellars was not completed in time right loyally responded to. After which followed to play an active role in the 1876 harvest, but it has played its part in the winemaking “Success and prosperity to Tabilk, abundant at Tahbilk for the 143 harvests that have followed, and one would be looking for that vintages and full cellars.” to continue for many, many more harvests to come. [Editor: As worthy a toast now as it was then!] Excerpts taken from: Fay Woodhouse, Vintage Stories A 150 Year History of Tahbilk,Tahbilk Pty Ltd, Tabilk, 2010, pages 79 - 81